Arduino Basics: Remote
Showing posts with label Remote. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Remote. Show all posts

16 September 2014

Arduino Selfie


 

My attention is drawn towards the noise behind me....
I cannot believe it.
There it is.

  The Arduino is taking a SELFIE !!


 

How did this happen?
 
Well actually, it is not that difficult for an Arduino.
 
I found out that my Canon Powershot SX50 HS camera has a port on the side for a remote switch. In the "Optional Accessories" section of the camera brochure, it identifies the remote switch model as RS-60E3. I then looked up the model number on this website to find out the size of the jack (3 core, 2.5mm), and the pinout (Ground, focus and shutter) required to emulate the remote switch. Once I had this information, I was able to solder some really long wires to the jack and connect up the circuit (as described below).
 

And before I knew it, the Arduino was taking Selfies !!!


 
Warning : Any circuit you build for your camera (including this one) is at your own risk. I will not take responsibility for any damage caused to any of your equipment.
 

Parts Required:


 

Fritzing Sketch


 


 
 

Connection Table


 


 
 

Three core, 2.5 mm jack


 


 
 

Camera Connection to Relays


 


 
 

Jack pinout


 


 
 

Completed Circuit


 


 
 

Arduino Sketch


 
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/* ===============================================================
      Project: Arduino Selfie
       Author: Scott C
      Created: 14th Sept 2014
  Arduino IDE: 1.0.5
      Website: http://arduinobasics.blogspot.com/p/arduino-basics-projects-page.html
  Description: Arduino takes selfie every 30 seconds
================================================================== */

 /* 
  Connect 5V on Arduino to VCC on Relay Module
  Connect GND on Arduino to GND on Relay Module */
 
 #define CH1 8   // Connect Digital Pin 8 on Arduino to CH1 on Relay Module
 #define CH3 7   // Connect Digital Pin 7 on Arduino to CH3 on Relay Module
 
 void setup(){
   //Setup all the Arduino Pins
   pinMode(CH1, OUTPUT);
   pinMode(CH3, OUTPUT);
   
   //Turn OFF any power to the Relay channels
   digitalWrite(CH1,LOW);
   digitalWrite(CH3,LOW);
   delay(2000); //Wait 2 seconds before starting sequence
 }
 
 void loop(){
   digitalWrite(CH1, HIGH);  //Focus camera by switching Relay 1
   delay(2000);
   digitalWrite(CH1, LOW);   //Stop focus
   delay(100);
   digitalWrite(CH3, HIGH);  //Press shutter button for 0.5 seconds
   delay(500);
   digitalWrite(CH3,LOW);    //Release shutter button
   delay(30000);             //Wait 30 seconds before next selfie
 }
    
    


 

By connecting up the camera to an Arduino, the camera just got smarter !!
The Arduino connects to 2 different channels on the relay board in order to control the focus and the shutter of the camera. The relays are used to isolate the camera circuit from that of the Arduino. I have also included a couple of diodes and resistors in the circuit as an extra precaution, however they may not be needed.

Warning : Any circuit you build for your camera (including this one) is at your own risk. I will not take responsibility for any damage caused to any of your equipment. Do your research, and take any precautions you see fit.


 
 

The Video


 


 


 
 

If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

  Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.


 
 

 
 
 



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30 July 2014

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 4:




WARNING: Please check whether you can legally use RF transmitters and receivers at your location before attempting this project (or buying the components). This project is aimed at those who are looking to automate their home.
There are 4 parts to this tutorial:
To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.


Project 4 : 433 Mhz RF remote replacement tutorial

Carrying on from my previous "433MHz transmitter and receiver" tutorials (1,2 & 3): I have thrown away the need to process the signal with a computer. This means that we can now get the Arduino to record the signal from an RF remote (in close proximity), and play it back in no time at all.
The Arduino will forget the signal when powered down or when the board is reset. The Arduino does not have an extensive memory - there is a limit to how many signals can be stored on the board at any one time. Some people have opted to create a "code" in their projects to help maximise the number of signals stored on the board. In the name of simplicity, I will not encode the signal like I did in my previous tutorials.
I will get the Arduino to record the signal and play it back - with the help of a button. The button will help manage the overall process, and control the flow of code.
Apart from uploading the sketch to the Arduino, this project will not require the use of a computer. Nor will it need a sound card, or any special libraries. Here are the parts required:


 

Parts Required:





Fritzing Sketch


 


 
 

Arduino Sketch


 

 
Now let's see this project in action !
Have a look at the video below to see the Arduino turning a light and fan on/off shortly after receiving the RF signal from the RF remote. The video will also show you how to put this whole project together - step by step.

The Video


 


This concludes my 433MHz transmitter and receiver tutorials (for now). I hope you enjoyed them.
Please let me know whether this worked for you or not.
I have not tested this project with other remotes or other frequencies - so would be interested to find out whether this technique can be used for ALL RF projects ??

 
 



If you like this page, please do me a favour and show your appreciation :

  Visit my ArduinoBasics Google + page.
Follow me on Twitter by looking for ScottC @ArduinoBasics.
Have a look at my videos on my YouTube channel.


 
 

 
 
 


However, if you do not have a google profile...
Feel free to share this page with your friends in any way you see fit.

20 July 2014

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 3



 
There are 4 parts to this tutorial:
To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.


Project 3: RF Remote Control Emulation

In the first tutorial, I introduced the 433 MHz Transmitter and Receiver with a simple sketch to test their functionality. In the second tutorial, the 433MHz receiver was used to receive a signal from an RF remote. The RF remote signal was coded based on the pattern and length of its HIGH and LOW signals. The signals received by the remote can be described by the code below:

 
Code comparison table



The RF remote that I am using transmits the same signal 6 times in a row. The signal to turn the light on is different from that used to turn the light off. In tutorial 2, we were able to "listen to" or receive the signal from the RF remote using the RF receiver. I thought it would be possible to just play back the signal received on the Arduino's analogPin, but the time it takes to perform a digital write is different to the time it takes to do an AnalogRead. Therefore it won't work. You need to slow down the digitalWrite speed.
I would like to find out if it is possible to apply this delay to all 433 MHz signal projects, however, I only have one 433 MHz remote.

If the delay in your project is the same as mine (or different) I would be keen to know - please leave a comment at the end of the tutorial.

We are going to use trial and error to find the optimal digitalWrite delay time. We will do this by slowly incrementing the delay until the transmission is successful. The transmission is considered successful if the fan-light turns on/off. All we have to do is count the number of transmissions until it is successful, then we should be able to calculate the delay.

 

Parts Required




 

The Transmitter Fritzing Sketch



 
 

RF Calibration - Arduino Sketch


I used an array to hold the RF code for light ON and light OFF. Each number within the code represents a specific sequence of HIGH and LOW lengths. For example, 2 represents a SHORT HIGH and a LONG LOW combination. A short length = 3, a long length = 7, and a very long length = 92. You need to multiply this by the timeDelay variable to identify how much time to transmit the HIGH and LOW signals for.
The short and long lengths were identified from the experiments performed in tutorial 2 (using the RF receiver). Each code is transmitted 6 times. The LED is turned on at the beginning of each transmission, and then turned off at the end of the transmission. The timeDelay variable starts at 5 microseconds, and is incremented by 10 microseconds with every transmission.
In the video, you will notice that there is some flexibility in the timeDelay value. The Mercator Fan/Light will turn on and off when the timeDelay variable is anywhere between 75 and 135 microseconds in length. It also seems to transmit successfully when the timeDelay variable is 175 microseconds.
So in theory, if we want to transmit a signal to the fan/light, we should be able to use any value between 75 and 135, however in future projects, I think I will use a value of 105, which is right about the middle of the range.


Video




  Now that I have the timeDelay variable, I should be able to simplify the steps required to replicate a remote control RF signal. Maybe there is room for one more tutorial on this topic :)

Update: Here it is - tutorial 4
Where you can record and playback an RF signal (without using your computer).


27 June 2014

433 MHz RF module with Arduino Tutorial 2




There are 4 parts to this tutorial:
To get the most out of this tutorial - it is best to start at tutorial Part 1, and then progress to Part 2 then Part 3 and then do Part 4 last. Doing the RF tutorials in this order will help you to understand the process better.


Project 2: RF Remote Copy

In the previous project, we transmitted a signal wirelessly from one Arduino to another. It was there to help troubleshoot communication between the modules. It was important to start with a very short distance (1-2 cm) and then move the RF modules further apart to test the range. The range can be extended by soldering an antenna to the module, or by experimenting with different voltage supplies to the modules (making sure to keep within the voltage limits of the modules.)
In this project - we aim to receive a signal from an RF remote. The remote that I am using is a Mercator Remote Controller for a Fan/Light. (Remote controller code is FRM94). It is important that you use a remote that transmits at the same frequency as your receiver. In this case, my remote just happens to use a frequency of 433MHz. I was able to receive RF signals from from a distance of about 30cm without an antenna (from my remote to the receiver).


Video





Here are the parts that you will need to carry out this project:
 

Parts Required


Remote Controller


You can quickly test your remote, by pressing one of the buttons in close proximity to the RF receiver (using the same sketch as in Project 1), and you should see the LED flicker on an off in response to the button press. If you don't see the LED flickering, then this project will not work for you.

Here is a picture of the remote controller that I am using:

 
 

Arduino Sketch - Remote Receiver

The following sketch will make the Arduino wait until a signal is detected from the remote (or other 433 MHz RF device). Once triggered, it will turn the LED ON, and start to collect and store the signal data into an array.
I did my best to keep the signal reading section of the sketch free from other functions or interruptions.The aim is to get the Arduino to focus on reading ONLY... and once the reading phase is complete, it will report the signal data to the Serial monitor. So you will need to have the Serial monitor open when you press the remote control button.
The remote control signal will be made up of HIGH and LOW signals - which I will try to illustrate later in the tutorial. But for now, all you need to know is that the Signal will alternate between HIGH and LOW signals, and that they can be different lengths.
This sketch aims to identify how long each LOW and HIGH signal is (to make up the complete RF remote signal). I have chosen to capture 500 data points(or 250 LOW/HIGH combinations).You may wish to increase or decrease the dataSize variable to accomodate your specific RF signal. In my case, I only really needed 300 data points, because there was a "flat" signal for the last 200 data points (characterised by 200 repetitions of a LOW signal length of 0 and HIGH signal length of 255)

--------------------------------------------------


Receiver Fritzing Sketch



Results

After pressing the button on the RF remote, the data signal is printed to the Serial Monitor. You can copy the data to a spreadsheet program for review. This is an example of the signal produced after pushing the button on the remote for turning the fan/light on.
The following code was produced from pushing the button responsible for turning the light off:
The code sequence above may seem a bit random until you start graphing it. I grabbed the LOW column - and produced the following chart:
The chart above is a bit messy - mainly because the timing is slightly out... in that sometimes it can squeeze an extra read from a particular signal. But what is important to note here is that you can differentiate a LONG signal from a SHORT signal. I have drawn a couple of red dotted lines where I believe most of the readings tend to sit. I then used a formula in the spreadsheet to calibrate the readings and make them a bit more uniform. For example, if the length of the signal was greater than 4 analogReads, then I converted this to 6. If it was less than 4 analogReads, then I converted it to 2. I used a frequency table to help decide on the cutoff value of 4, and just decided to pick the two values (2 for short, and 6 for long) based on the frequency tables below. I could have chosen 5 as the LONG value, but there were more 6's overall.

  **The meaning of "frequency" in the following tables relate to the "number of times" a specific signal length is recorded.


And this is the resulting chart:

You will notice that the pattern is quite repetitive. I helped to identify the sections with vertical red lines (near the bottom of the chart). In other words, the signal produced by the remote is repeated 6 times.
I then did the same for the HIGH signal column and combined the two to create the following chart:



 
You will notice that the HIGH signals also have a repetitive pattern, however have a Very long length at the end of each section. This is almost a break to separate each section.
This is what a single section looks like zoomed in:



SL = [Short LOW] signal. - or short blue bar
SH = [Short HIGH] signal - or short yellow bar
LL = [Long LOW] signal - or long blue bar
LH = [Long HIGH] signal - or long yellow bar
VLH = [Very long HIGH} signal - or very long yellow bar (~92 analogReads in length)


  You will notice that there are only about 6 different combinations of the signals mentioned above. We can use this to create a coding system as described below:


 
We can use this coding system to describe the signals. The charts below show the difference between turning the LIGHT ON and LIGHT OFF.


 


 
PLEASE NOTE: You may notice when you copy the signals from the Serial monitor that you get a series of (0,255) combinations. This is actually a timeout sequence - which generally occurs after the signal is complete.

 Here is an example of what I mean.



This is the end of tutorial 2. In the next tutorial, we will use the code acquired from the remote to turn the FAN LIGHT on and off (using the 433 MHz RF transmitter).

Click here for Tutorial 3